Travel Journals: San Luis Obispo '18

We are settled in San Luis Obispo, a reasonable place to be in January, and the only place I'd ever move to. (Well, except for the Dordogne in southern France as long as I'm dreaming.) We have taken one hike, seen one movie (Darkest Hour, a bit of a disappointment), checked out books from the library, done Tai Chi at the YMCA twice, dined out three times and spent a lot of time in our sunny back yard with book in hand. (And walked Rowdie a whole lot, but that's nothing new.) We have in six days adapted to the SLO life.

Dining out three times in six days doesn't sound like a slow life, but there were unusual circumstances. Our friends, Sue and Dick Molnar, were in town, taking a break from winter in Santa Fe. Our get-togethers always involve good food.

(A click or two on any photo will enlarge it to screen size.)

The Trail Head at Johnson Ranch Open Space

A bit of shade for hikers on a sunny day.

We've washed the grime of eight states off the bikes, and they're ready to go. I've been on my bike once, to zip (six minutes) downtown for fresh-ground coffee beans and a cuppa Joe on the patio at Peet's. There's frequently entertainment here, and this one-armed guitarist/singer was pretty good.

Street Musician, Downtown SLO

Today we visited the San Luis Obispo Museum of Art, a tiny gem of an art showcase. Every year we visit, the most interesting contemporary art finds its way into SLOMA's modest (in size only) galleries.

One day we cycled across town to a talk at the California Polytechnic Institute (Cal Poly) campus to hear a talk by Sky Bergman on her documentary film, "Lives Well Lived." She is a film maker, photographer, Cal Poly professor of photography and owner of a bed and breakfast in town where we stayed on our first spring break visit years ago. I spoke with her before the talk, and she told me the film was funded with her profits from her B and B. Carol and I, she pointed out, have helped fund the film.

Saturday night jazz in SLO. We walked to the Unity Concert Hall on Orcutt Road to listen to the Ernie Watts Quartet. I can't remember ever seeing four musicians having so much fun together - eye contact, laughter, coaxing more from each other. Exquisite jazz was the product of their good time.

After two cool weeks (good hiking weather), hot weather arrived today. So it was Sunday coffee and the NY Times on the patio at the Black Horse, a tradition. After lunch, we got on our bikes.

A quarter mile from our house on a main road with lots of cars, all in a hurry, we waited for a break in the traffic and swung across the road to the left turn lane at the light. Left on Orcutt Road and in ten minutes we were in wine country. Rolling hills, barns, vineyards, goats, light car traffic, on a country road with an ample bike lane. Not a cloud in the sky. Wind whispering in our ears.

On a Saturday night, we saw a play at the SLO Repertory Theater. The play, "New Jerusalem - The Interrogation of Baruch de Spinoza at Talmud Torah Congregation: Amsterdam, July 27, 1656" - was a pretty interesting take on what might have happened on that day in history three centuries ago. Carol and I wondered after the play how bewildering it might be to audience members who hadn't taken a philosophy course or two in college.

Local Theater

Muse

This was the first production we've seen at SLO Repertory, which staged its first performance in 1947. How have we missed this small, quality theater in all our visits here?

The weather turned hot during the second half of our stay here in SLO. Our hikes began earlier, we moved slower and covered less ground.

Bishop Peak

Climbing Bishop Peak - one of the more challenging hikes in San Luis Obispo County - has become a tradition for us, the culminating activity of our stay in San Luis Obispo. We chose a sunny, hot day to continue the tradition. Our progress was slower than previous years. Carol struggled to make it to the top; I struggled to make it back down. But we did it!

As we trudged up the trail in the hot sun, a young woman coming downhill said as we passed and greeted each other, "You're lookin' good." A similar thing happened to me the week before on another tough climb. A young woman said almost the same thing. "Looking good!' It occurred to Carol and me that hot afternoon on Bishop Peak that what they really wanted to say was, "Lookin' old! Can't believe you're doing this, but way to go!" We smiled and kept putting one foot in front of the other.

Bishop Peak - End of the Trail #1

End of the Trail #2

We didn't get in the car much this year, didn't visit a lot of interesting places outside SLO. We were content to stay close to home. There is plenty to do here, and we liked the slower pace. The one exception was a drive to Paso Robles, where we visited a couple vineyards and Kiler Ridge Olive Farm outside the city. Driving through the rolling hills reminiscent of Tuscany was a delight.

Wine and Olive Country Outside Paso Robles

Marsha educated us in the art of fine olive oil at Kiler Ridge

When the weather turned hot, we headed east to Avila Beach. We drove part way to a bike trail, then cycled to the Pacific Ocean.

A bit of shade at Avila Beach

Hitching Post, Avila Beach

And then, our time in SLO was at an end. A lot of time in the sun. A lot of good hiking. A lot of good movies. A lot of good dining. Mission accomplished. Below, in photos, is the rest of the story. First, the view when we were out and about on foot or on bikes.