"Day after day, day after day,
We stuck, nor breath nor motion;
As idle as a painted ship
Upon a painted ocean.
Water, water, everywhere,
And all the boards did shrink;
Water, water, everywhere,
Nor any drop to drink."
Samuel Taylor Coleridge could have been describing perhaps the only negative aspect of the Channel Islands National Park, lying off the coast at Ventura, California. Surrounded by the cold waters of the Pacific, not one of the islands has a source of fresh water.As idle as a painted ship
Upon a painted ocean.
Water, water, everywhere,
And all the boards did shrink;
Water, water, everywhere,
Nor any drop to drink."
I had plenty of water, plus a quart of Snapple and my lunch, when I boarded the boat for the twelve-mile voyage to Scorpion Canyon harbor on Santa Cruz Island, the largest of the Channel Islands. I shared a bench on the ride with Tina Armbruster, an enthusiastic volunteer docent. She shared her National Geographic map of the islands and gave me a thorough briefing of the hiking trails. When we tied up to the dock, I was ready to go.
The captain, as knowledgeable about tourists as he is about the ocean and the islands, told us passengers in approximately a dozen different ways that the boat back to the mainland would leave promptly at 3:30, half past three, thirty minutes after three, when the big hand is on the six and the little hand on the three. Then he repeated himself. Twice.
I made it into town Monday afternoon and, after a bit of a hassle, pitched my tent in Faria County Park. It's taken me a long time, but I'm finally camping on a beach!
Remember: You can click on any image to see it full screen.
Santa Cruz Island, as seen from my tent site
I had decided on the five-mile Scorpion Canyon hike, hoping to leave most of my fellow sight seers behind. (I succeeded). I planned to begin with a short ranger-guided hike, but the ranger had to wait so long for bathroom visits and stragglers from the visitor center that I gave up on that and set off on my own. Ten minutes up the trail and a couple hundred feet above the visitor center, I looked back to see the group still standing around. Good choice, Marco. I was rewarded with two hours of solitude and spectacular vistas.
On the way to Scorpion Canyon
Anacapa, the smallest of the islands, seen from the trail
Anacapa, the smallest of the islands, seen from the trail
Toward the end of my hike, I entered a primitive campground in the canyon and was greeted by a strong and pleasing scent. I was in a grove of eucalyptus trees.
A little farther on, I found an intersecting trail that led out of the canyon to Cavern Cove, which the trail guide noted had views "not to be missed." It was another two miles, but I felt great and had lots of time. I was rewarded with more magnificent views once I finished the steep climb out of the canyon. I had a leisurely lunch, chatting with other tourists. They drifted away, and I had the spot to myself. So I lay in the warm sun and drifted off as I thought of the sights, sounds and smells of this trip.
A little farther on, I found an intersecting trail that led out of the canyon to Cavern Cove, which the trail guide noted had views "not to be missed." It was another two miles, but I felt great and had lots of time. I was rewarded with more magnificent views once I finished the steep climb out of the canyon. I had a leisurely lunch, chatting with other tourists. They drifted away, and I had the spot to myself. So I lay in the warm sun and drifted off as I thought of the sights, sounds and smells of this trip.
Back to the visitor in plenty of time for the boat and a look at a Santa Cruz Island Fox.
The boat ride to and from the island was pretty cool, too. We passed resting seals and oil rigs, which I was shocked to learn are as tall as the Empire State Building! You can't get any sense of perspective as you look at these behemoths sitting out in the ocean.
Groovin' on a sunny afternoon
Taller than the Empire State Building!
Taller than the Empire State Building!
On my last full day before returning home, I hung out in Ventura, a lovely place. I wandered the downtown shops, got wired on caffeine as I worked on my this blog and had lunch high above the city in Grant Park. Ventura has a small but worthwhile art museum that currently has a stunning exhibit of weavings from Oaxaca, Mexico, as well as an exhibit of pre-Columbian musical instruments.
A tiny gem nestled in downtown Ventura
Mission San Buenaventura, founded by Father Junipero Serra
Santa Cruz Island, as seen from Grant Park, high above the city of Ventura.
Mission San Buenaventura, founded by Father Junipero Serra
Santa Cruz Island, as seen from Grant Park, high above the city of Ventura.
And, finally...
I'm still trying to figure out what you can do at this campground sink.
P.S.
All that really matters.
P.S.
I am fortunate to be able to travel to interesting and beautiful places, to take in the sights, sounds, flavors and smells of places far from home. I am more fortunate, still, to be able to return home to my family, without whom my life would have little meaning.
All that really matters.
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